Method of making gem settings



Sept 16, 1952 M. MANNE METHOD OF MAKING GEM SETTINGS Filed Aug. 5. 1949f E v INVENTOR. -WZOe manna dzi rrog I Patented Sept. 16,1952

v V 2,610,385 s F DIAKING SETTINGS Moe Manne, New York, N. Y., assignorto Manne Enterprises; Ltd., New

tion of New York York, N. Y., a acorporaapplicationAug'ustt,1949;":Serialhollowed This invention relatessame.

At'the present time, in the mounting or setting of jewels, andparticularly diamonds, it is .cus- 4 tomary to surround the set gem byreflecting surfaces, and especially angularly-disposed, highly polishedsurfaces, for the purpose of enhancing the brilliancy of the stone andserving'to create the effect of a stone of greater size than that I40min (01.2940) t I to jewelry settings, and particularly to a method ofmanufacturing the 2 I arrangement of parts to be herein disclosed andmore particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of theinvention is disclosed, Fig. 1 is a top'plan view of a setting madeactually used. In mounting or setting a stone operations above statedare time-consuming and must be performed by experienced andhighlyskilled and well-paid workmen, thus materially increasing theproduction cost of the jewelry of which such a setting forms a part,hence it is done only in higher-priced jewelry.

With the difficulties of producing settings of the above character inmind, thepresent invention contemplates the provision of a methodofmaking setting wherein the procedure involved is greatly simplified; thecost of production is very materially reduced and. the work involved maybe performed by workmen of relatively little skill, and hence the priceof the finished jewelry reduced very substantially.

More particularly, the the provisionof a method of making a. settingwherein the reflecting surfaces which extend along the sides of'the' setjewel are produced by stamping or by dies, and are completed and high:

in accordance with the present invention and prior to the mounting'ofthe gem; Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the setting with the'gemsmounted'therein; Fig. 3 is a longitudinal sectional view through the,setting with the gems mounted as shown in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a sectionalview taken on the line 44 of *Fig. 1, looking in the direction of thearrows; Fig. 5 is a top plan view of a differently shaped setting madein accordance with the invention; Fig. 6 is a top plan view of ad'ouble-row setting before the gems are mounted therein; Fig. 7 is asideview of the same, and Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken on the line8-8 of Fig.6, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Referringto the embodimentof the. invention shown in Figsl to 4inclusive, the setting consists of an elongated bar crstrip I,preferably but not necessarily of precious metal. The setinventioncontemplates ly polished before an attempt is made to set the jewel.Material for use in formation of the.

jewel-retaining,prongsor pins is provided between and independent of thepolished reflecting surfaces; the setting is pierced to provide theapertures for the stones, which are then placed in the apertures soprovided, and the material for the prongs or pins is distorted or spreadto engage over" the jewels and hold the same in place, the operations asabove set forth in no manner changing, marring or disturbing thepolished reflecting surfaces as initially provided on the setting.

With these and other objects to be hereinafter set forth in view, I havedevised the method and ting may be flat, or in the case of a finger ringsetting it may be curved or arcuate as shown in Fig. 7. The setting, asdisclosed in Figs. 1 to 4, is channel shaped. That is to say, itsconcave top or upper face is provided with the two inclined reflectingsurfaces 2 and 3 which, in the finished setting, diverge from the setstones and are highly polished to enhance the appearance of the gems andto create the effect of larger stones. Located between these angularpolished reflecting surfaces 2 and 3, is a rib. or bead 4, which isinterrupted at suitably spaced, and preferably uniformly spaced,intervals by the gem-receiving areas shown as apertures 5. in which thegems 6 are mounted in the manner shown in Figure 2.

In the improved method of'manufacturing the setting, the same ispreferably stamped or died out to the shape shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Theproduction of the setting by'dies includes also the simultaneousformation of the inclined reflecting surfaces 2- and 3, which, after thesetting is removed from the dies, and the holes 5Yplaced thereinaccording to the size'of the stones to .be mounted, are polished andfinished to the final highgloss. The polishing of the reflectingsurfaces 2 and 3 thus takes place wholly before the stones are set andthese finished and polished surfaces remain undisturbed by thegem-setting operation.

.In settingthe stones or gems 6, each gem is placed over the aperture 5and portions of the mounting of the gems in this manner is per-r, formedin a way which does not disturb the polished surfaces 2 and 3 so thatpolishing of these surfaces subsequently to the gem setting opera tionis unnecessary.

I have found that by finishing and polishing the reflecting surfaces 2and 3 prior to the setting of the gems, and the mounting or setting ofthe gems by the employment of material remote from and forming no partof the reflecting surfaces, the polishing and completion of the surfacesis readily and economically done since, with the gems not in thesetting, extraordinary care in polishing the surfaces 2 and 3 doesnotnecessarily have to be exercised, yet a high' and flawless polish iseasily imparted to the surfaces 2 and 3. The rib 4, provided between theapertures 5, provides ample material for formation into gem-retainingprongs or lugs 1, and this rib, being elevated above and situatedbetween the surfaces 2 and 3 is easily formed into the overlying prongsI which securely mount the gems.

In Fig. 5, a modification is disclosed, showing how the method ofmanufacture above described isemployed in conjunction with settingspremamental formation. Thereinis shown 'apetal or leaf-shaped settingIll having the 'two'jhighlypolished, inclined reflecting surfaces ii nd:2 corresponding in function 'tothose shown at 2 and 3, andbetween whicha stone is adapted to be mounted. An aperture [3 is providedfor thereception of the stone in the known mannenand a plurality of pin-formingribs i4, extend radially from the aperture l3. That is to say, pins orprongs such as shown at 7 in Fig. 2, are formed fromthe material ofthese ribsito hold the gem seated. In producing a settin asfishown inFig. 5, the same is died out; the aperture I3 is drilled and thereflecting surfaces 1 l and I2 are then polished to high gloss. The gemis'then set by distorting material of .the pin-forming ribs 14, toextend it over the stone andretain the stone in seated position over theaperture 13. It will again be noted in this embodimentof the invention,that the surfaces H and .12 are'finished and polished prior to. the.,gem setting operation. '1

In Figs. 6 to 8 inclusive, a double-row setting, such as might be usedin a ring, is shown; This is similar in construction to Fig. 1 exceptthat it is adapted for the setting of two rows of stones. This settingis also made in the manner described, with the reflecting surfacespolished before the setting of the stones and the stones retained inplace by distortion. of the ribs 4 between the stones. V

Several embodiments of the invention are shown .in the drawing toillustrate the factthat the settings may be made in various ornamentalforms, allof the same embodying, however, the same principle ofmanufacture and operation,

4 wherein the reflecting surfaces are pre-formed prior to the settingoperation, and no material is required to be removed or polished afterthe setting operation in order to either provide or complete thesereflecting surfaces. Hence the surfaces are smoother, flawless as tofinish and polish and moreover can be produced economically andaccurately by the method described.

Therefore, while I have herein described several embodiments of theinvention, it is obvious that the same is not to be restricted thereto,but

is broad'enough to cover all structures coming withinthe scope of theannexed claims. What, 'I claim is:

1.;The method .of making a gem setting comprising forming achannel-shaped strip having a top face by dieing operations, said striphaving its top face provided with inclined reflecting surfaces and a ribextending longitudinally between said surfaces, perforating the rib toprovide gemreceiving apertures, polishing the inclined refleetingsurfaces, and then setting gems over the apertures by retaining saidgems in place by utilizing portions of the rib only as gem-retaininglugs.

2. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, integrallyfabricating a gem setting of a metallic material formed with agem-receiving area and pin-forming members adjacent thereto,pre-polishing said gem setting contiguous to said gem-receiving area toprovide reflecting surfaces, thereafter placing a gem over saidgemreceiving area, and distorting only said pinforming members adjacentsaid gem-receiving area to provide gem-retainingv pins rigidly settingsaid gem. L l

3. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, fabricating a gemsetting of a metallic material formed with a gem-receiving area andpin-forming members adjacent thereto, pre-pol ishing said gemsettingcontiguous to said gemreceiving area and intermediate said pin-formingmembers to provide reflecting surfaces, thereafter placing a gem oversaid gem-receiving area, and distorting only said pin-formingmemberstoward said gem-receiving area to provide gem-retaining pinsrigidly setting said gem.

1. A method of setting gems comprising the steps of, fabricating a gemsetting of a metallic material provided with a gem-receiving area andformed with adjacent reflecting surfaces and pinforming members,,prepolishing said reflecting surfaces of said gem settingplacinga gemover saidg'em-receiving areaj'and distorting only said. pin-formingmembers to provide "gem-retaining pins rigidly setting saidgem;

. 7 RE RENCES @ITED The following references are of record in the fileofthis patentp A I UNITED STATESTATENTS Numberli' Name" 7 .Date

D. 159,410 .Frackman July 25, 1950 1,192,092 orse-"4 ;s a ly'zs, 19161,328,948 Dover 'Jan. 27 1920 1,604,013 Bausch Oct. 19, 1926 1,941,782Bager Jan. '2, 1934 2,140,465 Bangs Dec. 13, 1933

